In this video, we show the materials used to prepare a cap for the Toyota embroidery machine. We use the cap gauge, the plastic block that seats into the gauge so it can attach correctly to the machine, the cap hoop, and two binder clips to help secure the cap to the frame.
We begin by attaching the cap gauge to the workstation. The plastic block is slid underneath the base and into the cap gauge, then hand-tightened with the wing nut. Because the cap gauge is heavy, we make sure it is fully seated and tightened to the machine before proceeding. Once it is secure, we slide the cap hoop onto the gauge the same way it will go onto the cap driver on the embroidery machine: press down, slide it in, and disengage the band.
Next, we place the cap onto the frame and lift the sweatband so it goes underneath the plate. It does not need to be forced in or pushed all the way to the back wall; the sweatband only needs to sit underneath the plate. We then bring the band in, grinding the teeth of the band into the bill area of the cap, and latch the right-hand side shut. To center the cap, we use the guide marks on the gauge and line up the middle seam of a six-panel cap with the center line. The frame should be snug, but we should still be able to manually adjust the cap slightly to straighten it. Once aligned, we use binder clips to secure the cap to the posts.
We also note that this example uses a six-panel structured cap. A structured cap has buckram in the front two panels, which provides a stable surface, so additional backing is not required. If we were working with a low-profile unstructured cap made of soft fabric all the way around, we would use a heavier backing, and we recommend a 3.25-ounce backing for that application.
Looking to improve cap hooping and embroidery setup? Check out our embroidery supplies and accessories.